The Atomos Ninja V ships light. You get the recorder, a bulky sunhood, a Master Caddy II, and a mains power adapter. That's it. No batteries, no storage, no mounting solution, no HDMI cable.
This is the gear you actually need to make it work on shoots. Everything listed here is under £50 individually, with specific models tested by working videographers.
1. SSDs (and how to actually mount them)
What you need: Two Samsung 870 EVO 1TB SSDs - £70-90 each
The Ninja V records to standard 2.5" SATA SSDs. Atomos maintains a compatibility list, but Samsung 870 EVO drives are the most reliable option that won't break the bank. The 1TB gives you roughly 2.5 hours of 4K ProRes recording.
Why two drives: The Ninja V doesn't buffer. When you hit capacity mid-take, recording stops. Two drives means one recording, one ready. Professional workflow is: shoot on drive A, offload to computer at night, format drive A, shoot on drive B next day, repeat.
Alternative SSD options:
- Samsung 870 QVO (£60-80/1TB): Slower write speeds but works fine for 4K30p. Not recommended for 4K60p or ProRes RAW.
- Crucial BX500 (£50-70/1TB): Budget option. Works but has occasional write speed dips that can cause dropped frames on intensive codecs.
- Angelbird AtomX SSDmini (£180-220/1TB): Premium option, 20% smaller form factor, slots directly into Ninja V without a caddy. Only worth it if you're shooting ProRes RAW regularly.
The caddy problem: Standard 2.5" SSDs don't fit directly into the Ninja V. You need a Master Caddy to hold the drive. The official Atomos Master Caddy II requires four tiny screws to secure the SSD. If you're swapping drives multiple times per shoot, those screws get old fast.
Our screw-less SSD caddy (£9.80) uses a precision-fit design instead. The drive slides in and locks with friction - no screws, no tools, no fumbling with tiny fasteners when you're trying to swap media quickly. The caddy stays secure during normal use but releases cleanly when you need it to.
The official Master Caddy II costs £15-20. Ours is £9.80 and removes the friction from media swaps entirely.
Critical: Format drives before each shoot. The Ninja V doesn't let you delete files on the device. A fragmented drive will cause write errors.
2. NP-F Batteries (Get the Right Capacity)
What you need: Two NP-F970 batteries - £30-40 for third-party, £60+ for genuine Sony
The Ninja V runs on Sony NP-F series batteries. Battery life varies by capacity:
- NP-F550 (~2600mAh): ~4 hours runtime - £15-20 third-party
- NP-F750 (~5200mAh): ~6 hours runtime - £25-30 third-party
- NP-F970 (~7200mAh): ~8 hours runtime - £30-40 third-party
Buy NP-F970s. The 1000-nit screen drains power. You want batteries that last a full shooting day.
Specific recommendations:
- Neewer NP-F970 (£35 for 2-pack): Solid performer, widely available on Amazon UK
- RAVPower NP-F970 (£40 for 2-pack): Slightly better build quality
- K&F Concept NP-F970 (£38 for 2-pack): Good middle ground
Do NOT buy: Generic unmarked batteries under £15. They claim 7200mAh but deliver maybe 3000mAh in practice. False capacity ratings are rampant with NP-F batteries.
Battery management: You need to know which batteries are charged, which are dead, which are at home vs. in your bag. A basic NP-F battery case (£8-15) solves this. Look for ones with individual slots that let you orient charged batteries one direction, dead batteries the other.
The Atomos official accessory kit includes NP-F750 batteries (5200mAh) for £165 total. You can buy two NP-F970s (7200mAh) plus a dual charger for under £60.
3. HDMI Cable (The One Thing You Cannot Cheap Out On)
What you need: Depends entirely on your camera's HDMI port
Identify your camera's port first:
- Full HDMI (Type-A): Rare on cameras, common on cinema cameras
- Mini HDMI (Type-C): Nikon Z6/Z7, some Panasonic bodies
- Micro HDMI (Type-D): Sony A7 series, Canon R5/R6, Fuji X-T4, most mirrorless cameras
The Ninja V uses full HDMI (Type-A) input. You need a cable from your camera's port type to Type-A.
HDMI 2.0 vs 1.4: If you're shooting 4K60p or 10-bit 4K30p, you need an HDMI 2.0 cable minimum. HDMI 1.4 will limit you to 4K30p 8-bit or 1080p60p. This catches people constantly - they blame the Ninja V when really their £8 Amazon cable can't handle the bandwidth.
Specific recommendations:
For Micro HDMI (Type-D) cameras:
- SmallRig Ultra Thin Micro HDMI to HDMI (£12-15, 35cm): Ridiculously thin and flexible (0.1" diameter), doesn't stress camera port
- Alvin's Cables 8K 2.1 Micro HDMI to HDMI (£18-25, various lengths): Supports full 4K120p if your camera can output it, ultra-thin TPE cable
For Mini HDMI (Type-C) cameras:
- Alvin's Cables Mini HDMI to HDMI 2.1 (£20-28): Same quality as their micro version
Cable length: Get 30-45cm (12-18") if mounting the Ninja V on your camera. Longer cables create slack that snags on things. Coiled cables look tidy but add weight and can pull on the camera port.
Cable protection is non-negotiable: The micro HDMI port on your camera is fragile. Breaking it costs £200-400 in repairs. Use an HDMI cable clamp - SmallRig makes one for £8-12 that mounts to the camera cage or hot shoe. This takes stress off the port.
The Atomos official HDMI cables are £60-90 and coiled. They're the only HDMI 2.0+ coiled cables on the market, which is nice for cable management. But functionally, a £15 SmallRig cable with a £10 clamp performs identically and costs 70% less.
4. Mounting Solution
What you need: Depends on your rig setup
The Ninja V has two 1/4"-20 mounting points (top and bottom) plus anti-rotation pins. How you mount it depends on whether you're running a cage or going minimal.
Hot shoe mount (no cage):
- SmallRig/Neewer adjustable monitor mount (£15-25): 360° swivel, 180° tilt, mounts to camera hot shoe via cold shoe adapter
- Works great for run-and-gun, keeps rig compact
- Monitor sits at eye level above the camera
- Limitation: Only as stable as your camera's hot shoe
Cage mount (if you already have a camera cage):
- Mount the Ninja V to top handle or side rails of your cage
- More mounting points = more stability
- Better for heavier rigs or when using longer lenses
- SmallRig Monitor Cage for Ninja V (£45): Not essential but adds NATO rails and additional mounting points if you're building out a serious rig
For the Ninja V itself:
- SmallRig Cage for Ninja V CMA2209 (£40-50): Adds protection, NATO rails, HDMI cable clamp, multiple mounting points. Worth it if you're using the Ninja V constantly. Skip it if you're just testing the waters.
What actually matters: Stability. A wobbly monitor is unusable. Whatever mounting solution you choose, make sure it locks tight and doesn't sag under the Ninja V's weight (320g / 11oz).
5. Sunhood (Protect It or Replace It)
The problem: The included Atomos sunhood is genuinely useful in bright conditions - the Ninja V screen washes out in direct sun. But it's bulky, the folding mechanism is fragile, and it takes up half your bag.
Our sunhood cover (£11) is designed specifically for this. It's a low-profile protective cover that shields the OEM sunhood from damage while keeping it compact for transport. The cover mounts securely with a screw fitting, protecting the hood without requiring you to constantly remove and repack it.
Reduces glare in bright environments, provides light protection from rain, and integrates cleanly with existing rigs. If you're using the Atomos sunhood regularly and need to protect it during transport, this solves the problem.
Alternative approach: Ditch the OEM sunhood entirely if you shoot mostly indoors or in controlled lighting. The anti-reflective screen coating helps. Just position yourself to avoid direct glare.
Screen protector: Tempered glass screen protectors exist (£8-12). They prevent scratches but add glare. Skip unless you're shooting in dusty/sandy environments or constantly rigging and de-rigging. The Ninja V screen is tougher than you think.
What You Don't Need (Yet)
AtomX accessories: The SDI module (£150), SSDmini handle (£20), battery eliminator, etc. - all solve specific problems. Don't buy them until you encounter the problem.
V-mount battery system: NP-F970 batteries give you 7-8 hours. If you need more, you're on a production with access to mains power anyway. V-mount rigs add £200+ and substantial weight.
Atomos official accessory kit: £165 for 2x NP-F750 batteries, charger, sunhood, travel case, DC power cables, Master Caddy III. You can build better for less by buying third-party batteries and only the accessories you actually need.
Calibration tools: The Calibrite ColorChecker Display (£180+) is for calibrating the monitor. Unless you're grading on the Ninja V (which you shouldn't be), the out-of-box calibration is fine for on-set monitoring.
The Actual First Purchase List
Here's what to buy, in order of necessity:
Mandatory:
- Two Samsung 870 EVO 1TB SSDs - £140-180 total
- SSD caddy for tool-free swaps - £9.80 (our screw-less version) or £15-20 (Atomos Master Caddy II)
- Two NP-F970 third-party batteries + dual charger - £50-70 total
- Correct HDMI cable for your camera - £12-25
- HDMI cable clamp - £8-12
Highly recommended:
- Hot shoe monitor mount OR cage mounting solution - £15-50
- Battery storage case - £8-15
- Sunhood cover if using OEM sunhood - £11
Optional:
- SmallRig Ninja V cage - £40-50
- Screen protector - £8-12
Total mandatory spend: £220-297 on top of the Ninja V itself (£500-600).
Total to be properly set up: £254-384.
That's the actual cost of using an Atomos Ninja V. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't used one on a real shoot.